Whenever we book a holiday, the weather forecast says it is going to rain. Usually, we ignore it, but as the hail pelted my windows in Tirana and the thunder rumbled overhead, we ummed and ahhed quite considerably about whether to risk it. After a few tantrums and a lot of stress, we left Tirana, loaded up with my boyfriend’s mothers byrek and some traditional Albanian music on the stereo to get us in the mood.
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As we took the road out of Durres, I was struck by how the landscape had changed since I had last been there. Gone were the colourful rose bushes lining the road, instead replaced with a carpet of powder blue blooms and delicate white flowers, the name of which escapes me. The once lush green foliage had taken on a more golden hue, and fields of corn lined the side of the road, reaching up into the sky like straw coloured spears. These fields of corn stretched as far as the eye can see, flanking our route as we twisted and turned through the lowlands. The farmers selling their wares by the side of the road still remained, but instead of cherries and strawberries, their stalls were weighed down with bulbous melons in colours of yellow, green, and everything in between.
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We stopped to buy a muskmelon from one farmer just outside of Fier; as the knife sliced through its flesh it the most pungent and intoxicatingly sweet smell. Devouring it in a matter of minutes, refreshed we continued our drive.
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We drove through Fier- a mass of abandoned industrial buildings and brightly coloured apartment blocks- and made our way towards Apollonia. It is said that the Ancient Greek city was build in 588BCE by Greek colonists from Corfu and Corinth.
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They founded their settlement on the banks of the Aous river on a site that had been used by native Illyrian tribes. After the Greeks, it flourished during the Roman period and it was home to a famous school of philosophy before its decline in the 3rd century AD.
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Today Apollonia is recognised as an important site by UNESCO and you can freely explore what is left of the churches, monasteries, theatres, and Acropolis.
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As we wandered around the site, retracing the footsteps of the Illyrians, Greeks, and Romans that walked before us, we stumbled across a little tortoise taking a nap in the hot midday sun.
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Tortoise ?ߐ