A day on the Riviera

I awoke early- the sun was shining and a light haze had settled on my surroundings, waiting for the heat of the sun to burn it off. I took my laptop and sat in the garden of our bed and breakfast and set to work with one of the best views around- over the city of Himare with Corfu in the far distance.

Breakfast was served in the same spot- eggs from the chickens that scuttled at my feet, fresh cheese, fresh bread, and gratuitously juicy watermelon that attracted the attention of a few dozy wasps- this was the perfect way to start the day.

Feeling full and caffeinated, we packed our beach gear and headed off, making a quick stop at Himara castle beforehand. Negotiating the rough cobbles and steps, we made our way inside the castle walls.

The unique thing about Himara castle is that despite being mainly ruins, there are still people living inside it. Amongst the rubble and crumbling structures are a number of beautifully kept houses complete with gardens bearing prickly pears, grapes, and even pumpkins and gourds.

The incessant chirping of the crickets that accompanied us from Tirana, followed us here and we had the place pretty much to ourselves.

There is evidence of settlement in this spot dating back to the Bronze Age and whilst the castle itself is Byzantine, there are Hellenic walls as well as 18th Century dwellings. I also spotted a Maltese cross- a symbol of the Order of St John, engraved on one of the buildings.

It is a wonderful place- somewhere you can get lost exploring and the labyrinthine paths are shaded by the sun by vines that strain under the weight of rich purple and green grapes.

This is somewhere you can easily get lost, and the views are nothing short of spectacular. From the view of the beaches of Himare, to the impressive and imposing mountain view with the valley below- this is a great spot to stop and take it all in.

After spending an hour or so here, we headed down to Livadhi Beach with its rows of umbrellas and thatched day beds.

Many people told me “it will be soooo busy, don’t expect any relaxation” but this was not the case. Whilst the beach was busy, it was not too crowded and it offered just the right combination of relaxing vibes and summer time buzz.

I renamed the beach Butterfly Beach as I have never seen so many butterflies in one place, particularly by the sea. White, yellow, red, and in all different sizes, they fluttered around and settled on everything from deckchairs to swimmers- a really beautiful and pleasant sight.

The ocean here is the most brilliant shade of turquoise and aquamarine and it effortlessly blends into a deep indigo as the water deepens at the head of the bay. As we lay relaxing under a thatched fern ceiling, I couldn’t help but doze off with the sound of crashing waves lulling me to sleep.

This is a really beautiful place. Whilst there are a couple of lovely restaurants on the edge of the beach, don’t expect much in the way of amenities from the beach bars. No wine, no cocktails, just beer and spirits (be prepared to pay a hefty price) but it doesn’t matter because with views like this, not much else does matter.

When you compare this place to other spots in Europe, it remains completely unspoilt in comparison. The beaches are surprisingly clean and the water is clear and cool. You can eat and drink well for a relatively low price and even a day bed or sunbed will only set you back a few euros.

The coastline is to die for- smooth pebbles and glorious water, set against incredible mountains in the background. For me, this is without a doubt one of the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful stretches of coastline that I have ever seen.

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